Thursday, February 14, 2008

Reposted from LJ

One year when I traveled with a group of customers to Schmitt-Wagner, he brought out a treasure remarkable even by his standards, an Auslese from the great 1937 vintage. I had tasted the wine once before (this is a generous man) and I waited for what I knew would come. As the wine was poured the group inhaled audibly at the color, and I saw many faces grow meditative as they sniffed those first mysterious fragrances. But when you expect to be moved you’re too self-conscious and you can’t be moved. That was me. My guests had walked through that little tear in the curtain out into the other world. I was happy for them.

Someone asked Herr Schmitt, “Did you make this wine?” “Oh my goodness no, I was just a child,” he answered. Then he grew pensive and said “But I do remember being a boy of six, picking the grapes alongside my grandma,” and then I lost it. I was looking at his hands just then, as it happened, the hands of a vigorous old gentleman still ruddy from a life in the open air, and I suddenly saw the child’s little hands inside them. And saw the child trotting along at his grandma’s side, happy to be included in the general activity, proud to be useful, there among the vines. And now it was sixty-four years later. The wine in our glasses was enthralling enough to us, but to our host it was the pure blood of memory, bound to the filaments of his earliest joys, with affection and usefulness. This is a man of Wine, I realized. This is what it means to be a man of wine.

(From Terry Theise's 2006 Catalog)


I started this entry with a quote because I met the man writing above and he embodies everything I want to be as a wine drinker and buyer and lover. He is slightly weird (in the best possible, most genuine way--he is *ACTUALLY* a little strange instead of just trying to act strange), modest, considerate, well spoken, and kind. Perhaps more importantly, he truly loves wine--loves it for its highs and lows, loves it for its evocation, and is as eloquent as anyone I've ever read in expressing that love. (He was also Food and Wine's Importer of the Year in 2005, and has been named as one of the top wine personalities in the world.)

Backtracking.

Friday I took the day off, got the place ready--Nitch, Bedlam and Ryan got here, we had plenty of bread, brie, the boys had brown sugar kielbasa, we had wine and beer and just hung out until 2AM ish.

Saturday I got up and went to the gym BEFORE going to volunteer...which, being a little hung over and EXHAUSTED, was sheer torture. Nitch, Jess and I went to our volunteer shifts. By some great gift of the gods, I got Wine Seminars as my volunteer assignment...which meant that I went to these seminars, collected tickets, and in both of the ones I was assigned to, actually got to sit and TASTE these incredible $60 boutique wines with the wine maker or facilitator speaking.

The first seminar, the focus was on Oregon Pinot Noir (and the wine was truly interesting and at times impressive). The difficulty with the seminar was that the first half at least was just Powerpoint slides of different maps (topological, etc). DRY DRY DRY.

The second one was on Gruner Veltliner, a slightly obscure Austrian grape that enjoyed a vogue in the late 90's and, at least according to Terry, deserves a place on every table crying for dry white wine. The seminar ended up basically being an extended conversation--funny, approachable, engaging. I was enthusiastic about the wine, enthusiastic about the way I tasted them, and just enthralled by Terry. (For those in the know/interested--he described Gruner Veltliner as a possible love child, flavor wise, between Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier.)

I got done w/ my duties in time to hit the tasting floor for a few moments, tried the Sergio Rose Prosecco I'd been googling, as well as some surprisingly balanced Sauvignon Blanc, then we all headed back to Casa de Leah. Much Guitar Hero ensued.

Sunday I had my session with Julian (he continues to rock), then we went to the GRAND TASTING!!!! AHAAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHH!

This year was my favorite, because I felt mostly like a knowledgeable taster. I find that my palate and questions get better every year.

Some standout stuff from the Expo:

All the sake from Michael Simkin (the very hip sake expert who offered me a mentorship in sake if I ever want to learn more).
Thirsty Lizard's environmentally friendly, recyclable and more energy efficient package (and the Semillion/Sauvignon Blanc that went in it).
David Bruce Petite Syrah (I'm excited to try the Pinot Noir). Dense and rich. Somehow very lovely despite being assertive
Long Flat Destinations Riesling (Clare Valley)...and the patient Australian pouring it for drunken middle aged folks next to me. Nice stony/fruity combo. Very user friendly.
Markus Molitor Riesling.
Domaine de Baumard Cremant de Loire (tasting sparkling non Champagne....YUM! Good fruit and a nice price!).
Chef Oga's salmon tartare (which we had at the celebrity chef stage).
All the Gruner Veltliner from Terry's presentation.
Elk Cove (Oregon) Pinot Gris.
Four Vines kick you in the face wine!! And getting another NAKED tattoo!
Working on my spitting technique (and not actually getting wine on anyone or anything when I *WAS* spitting it out.


All in all, a great weekend and some incredible food for thought.